corner to corner afghan, day 3

Posted on November 5, 2008 by Anastacia Knits

If you are just stopping in, please see day one and day two.

Today we are going to decrease.

I’m going to show you how to decrease AND do a color change, all at the same time!

You can see in the above photo the start of the color change. I ended the old color (the pink) and I’m starting the new color, the blue. I have a slip knot on my hook, and I’m slipping it through the chain space.

Here’s the first shell in the new color completed:

And here we are, a little farther along:

Now, when we get to the end of this row, we’ll continue in the same color. So, when we get to the corner, we’ll chain one, turn, slip stitch back the way we came, and in that chain space, we’ll continue shelling across as usual.

If you DECREASE on one side, and continue INCREASING on the other, you’re creating a bias fabric: in other words, a rectangle. If you decrease both sides, you’ll create a square.

People seem to be confused by these directions: It’s very easy. Continue increasing, from the directions on Day One, on one side of the row only, while decreasing, by following the directions above, on the other side of the row.

Congratuations! You’ve learned how to make a shell stitch, corner to corner afghan.corner

corner to corner afghan day two

Posted on November 5, 2008 by Anastacia Knits

Today I’ll show you how to change colors various ways within the corner to corner afghan. Photos are all clickable if you’d like to see larger views, and any questions please ask me!

So today we are changing colors. There are different ways of doing this. Â The technique is all the same, it’s the location that’s different – and thus, the finished look.

First – changing colors whenever we run out of yarn. You’ll change colors like any other color change in double crochet:

yarn over hook, insert hook in chain space and pull through yarn (three loops on hook), yarn over hook and pull through one loop (two remaining loops), drop old color/cut old yarn color, pick up new color, yarn around hook, pull through remaining two loops: one loop left on crochet hook. And continue making your shells as usual.

That is my least favorite way of changing colors in this pattern/stitch – it’s OK, but I think it looks a little messy. We can do better.

Change colors as before, but this time, complete a full shell. Instead of slipping into the next chain space with the old color, pick up the next color, and continue with the new color.

My favorite way of changing colors is at the end of a full row, for a nice, clean color change.

Finish your last shell with your old color, but in the last double crochet of the shell, change colors. Now chain 6 with the new color, and continue as usual.

corner to corner afghan part one

Posted on November 5, 2008 by Anastacia Knits

Diagonal Shell Stitch Corner to Corner Afghan Tut

By request, here’s how to make the corner to corner shell stitch afghan. All photos are clickable.
Use any yarn of choice, and appropriate size hook. I’m using scraps of worstened weight yarn and a 5 mm hook. Finished size can be adjusted depending on how big you make it (which is why it’s a favorite pattern of mine) or how much yarn you have, etc.

Chain 6.

In fourth chain from hook, make one double crochet. In the next two chains, make one more double crochet in each of the two chains. This means you have the turning chain where you skipped your first few chains, and 3 double crochets. This forms your first shell block.

Chain 6.

Make one double crochet in the fourth chain from hook & in the next 2 chain spaces.

Now, turn that first shell a bit, and slip stitch into the very first chain space (where you skipped the very first stitches). Chain 3, and make 3 double crochet into that chain space.

Do you see what we are doing? Each row adds one more “shell”.

Chain 6, double crochet into the 4th chain from the hook & into the next two chains. Turn work, slip into chain space that you skipped on the row before. Chain 3, and make 3 double crochets into the same chain space.

Slip into next chain space, chain 3, and make your 3 double crochets as before.

And just keep going, for as long as you want, changing colors whenever you like/run out of yarn.

Part two will involve changing colors & is more for beginners
Part three includes how to turn the square into a rectangle, and how to do the decreases.

Newsboy Hat

Posted on November 5, 2008 by Anastacia Knits

newsboy hat

Uses just over a skein of Knit Picks Crayon, 100% pima cotton.
50 grams/128 yards.

Hook: Size F or size to give gauge
Gauge: 3 sts=1″
Extras:
Scrap of plastic canvas, in color to match yarn or piece of cardboard (for brim)
about 30″ thin elastic

Foundation Row: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook.
Rnd 1: Mark beg of round, crochet 2 sc in each sc around.
Rnd 2: Make 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, work around.
Rnd 3: sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, work around.
Rnd 4: sc in first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, work around.
Continue in established pattern, keep increasing every round until circle is 9.5″ across.

Work even for two rounds.
Decrease round: Sc in the next two stitches, dec next two stitches, work around.
Work even for four rounds. Do NOT end off!

Sc in next 15 stitches, mark place, then work back across 15 stitches just worked. Sc into last sc from first round and sc into the original round. Work back across all stitches just worked, sc across end of rows, and work sc into original round. Continue back and forth until brim measures size desired, or about 3″, ending with a sc on original row. End off.

Second piece of brim: Ch 16, work one sc in each chain across. Work back, and work 1 sc at end of row. Work back, and work 2 sc at end of row. Work back and forth, adding sc at the end of rows. Work until same size as brim on hat. End off. Weave in end.

Cut piece of plastic canvas or cardboard to same size as brim. Work 1 sc into each sc in both pieces of hat, and continue working around hat, work 1 sc in each stitch across. Cut long tail, and sew the seam of the hat brim carefully on the inside.

Take piece of elastic and weave into stitches of the decrease round. Pull snugly to fit, tie, and weave in ends.

enjoy!

My mom’s modeling the hat, by the way!

very easy small scrubbie

Posted on November 5, 2008 by Anastacia Knits

This tiny scrubbie was designed especially for using up the tiniest scraps of yarn. Its small size was designed for washing the inside bottom of mugs and glasses, and other hard to wash areas.

MATERIALS:
Small amount of scrap cotton, nylon, or acrylic yarn
Yarn needle

Gauge: gauge doesnâ€™t matter, crochet firmly & in a gauge you are happy with. I used an F hook.

Finished scrubbie measures: 3â€ across
DIRECTIONS:
Rnd 1: Ch 4 (counts as 1st dc), 15 dc in 4rd ch from hook, join with a sl st in 4th ch of beg ch 4: 16 dc.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in every dc around, join with a sl st in 1st sc: 32 sc.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in same sc, * ch 3, sk next sc, sc in next sc, rep from * around scrubbie, join with a sl st to 1st sc. End off, weave in ends, and scrub dishes!

Feel free to make as many of these as you like for local craft fairs/auctions/raffles/bazaars, but please do not sell finished items online. The pattern itself is not for sale. If making for charity, please let me know the name of the charity and include my contact info with the item (http://anastaciaknits.net / anastaciaknits@verizon.net / anastaciaknits on Ravelry). Thanks!

Thanks to pamelascrafts, olive2, stiedeman, rolyknitter, vapmore, bonnie0128, gumby28, & MariainCT for their test crocheting/thoughts/editing. Also, a big thank you goes out to The Testing Pool group on Ravelry.

Toe Up Socks

Posted on November 5, 2008 by Anastacia Knits

Cable Look Socks

These worsted weight socks knit up quickly and make great slipper socks! This pattern was previously published in Knitting Pattern a Day Calendar 2009 as “Cable Look Socks” and this version has been tech edited and rewritten for clarity, along with adding an additional size.

By Anastacia Zittel / http://anastaciaknits.net /

http://www.ravelry.com/groups/anastacia-knits-designs

Materials: 4-5 ounces (115-140 grams) of any worsted weight wool (Knit Picks Swish Worsted, 100% superwash wool, 110 yards/50 grams per skein, 3 balls, in Big Sky was used by designer) and a set of five size 5 (3.75 mm) dpns, or size needed to obtain gauge

Gauge: 5 sts=1 inch in Cable Rib pattern

Measurements: Size small (large): 8 (9.6)” circumference

Abbreviations (pattern uses US terms):

k: knit

p: purl

st(s): stitch(es)

rep: repeat

sl: slip

m1: make one (lifted bar increase)

ssk: slip, slip, knit (decrease)

p2tog: purl two together (decrease)

Pattern Note: I used the lifted bar increase (M1), but use increase method of your choice. The heel is a reverse dutch heel. Changes for different sizes are in parenthesis.

Cable Rib Pattern:

Rounds 1, 2, and 3: K2, p2 around.

Round 4: Insert right hand needle into first 2 sts on left hand needle (as if to k2together) and k1, but leave sts on left hand needle. Insert right hand needle into first stitch on left hand needle again and k1 and slip the 2 sts off left hand needle, p2, and repeat across.

Pattern:

Toe:

Beginning at toe, cast on using Judy’s Magic Cast On method, 4 sts each on 2 needles (8 sts) – see http://knitty.com/ISSUEspring06/FEATmagiccaston.html for more help.

Rounds 1-2: K around.

Round 3: Increase every stitch and at the same time, divide onto 4 needles with 4 sts on each needle (16 sts).

Rounds 4-5: K around.

Round 6: * (K1, m1, k2, m1, k1), rep from * around (24 stitches total).

Rounds 7-8: K around.

Round 9: * (K1, m1, k4, m1, k1), rep from * around (32 stitches total).

Rounds 10-12: K around.

Round 13: * (K1, m1, k6, m1, k1), rep from * around (40 stitches total).

Size large only:

Rounds 13-15: K around

Round 16: * (K1, m1, k8, m1, k1), rep from * around (48 stitches total).

Foot:

Begin working cable rib pattern (instructions below) over 20 (24) instep stitches; the sole is knit plain (20 (24) stitches). For size small only, slip one stitch from needle two to needle one before knitting, in order to work the cable rib stitch.

Rounds 14-16 (17-19): P1, (k2, p2) across instep sts, end last repeat with p1, k across sole sts.

Round 17 (20): P1, * insert right hand needle into first 2 sts on left hand needle and k1, but leave sts on left hand needle. Insert right hand needle into first stitch on left hand needle again and k1 and slip the 2 sts off left hand needle, p2, and repeat from * across instep stitches, k across sole.

Repeat cable rib pattern until foot measures length desired minus 2-1/2″.

Begin Gusset:

Round 1: Work across top of foot in pattern (needles 1 and 2). On needle 3, k1, m1, k across rest of needle. On needle 4, k across to last stitch, m1, k1.

Round 2: Continue working in pattern.

Repeat last two rows five more times, for a total of 12 increases and 12 rows. See note at end of pattern for adjusting the gusset size if desired.

Begin Heel:

Heel will be worked over sts on needles 3 and 4, starting on Row 1 below.

Row 1 (WS): Sl first st, p across next 15 (17) sts; on next needle, p5 (p7), turn.

Row 2: (RS): Sl first st, k across next 9 (13) sts, turn.

Row 3: Sl first st, p across next 9 (13) sts, turn.

Repeat Rows 2–3 three times more, and then repeat Row 2 once more.

Continue along the side of the flap and pick up and knit 5 stitches on the side of the flap. Turn, slip first stitch, purl back the 4 stitches you just picked up, purl the next 10 (14) stitches from your flap, and pick up 5 more stitches along other side of flap – 20 (24) purl stitches, including the first slipped stitch. You are left with your original 20 (24) stitches from the bottom of your foot, and gusset stitches to be decreased away.

Sl first st, (k1, sl1) across to last stitch of the heel, and decrease last stitch (ssk) along with one stitch from gusset.

Turn, and purl back, decreasing last stitch of heel with one stitch from gusset (p2tog).

Repeat these two rows until all the gusset stitches have been decreased and you have only 20 (24) stitches for the heel.

Knit across needles 3 and 4, work across the top of your foot in pattern, and now continue the pattern around the leg.

Work even in pattern around entire leg for desired length of leg, minus 2″ for ribbing.

Work rounds 1-3 of pattern only for 2”. Bind off loosely, using Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind Off (http://knitty.com/ISSUEfall09/FEATjssbo.php). Weave in ends.

Pattern note: To adjust the size of the gusset, work as many rounds as desired, and then work the heel as follows:

Mark the center 10 (14) stitches on needles #3 and #4.

Turn work, slip first stitch, purl across until you hit the marked stitch. Turn, knit across marked stitches only (heel stitches).

Work row 3 and 4 for heel area as written above. If you have more gusset stitches, you will have more decrease rows; if you have less gusset stitches, you will have fewer decrease rows.

Thank you to my tech editor, Kristin LeMoine (kri on Ravelry). Many thanks to my testers, patternwhisperer, honeystalks, and AshwiniJ!

Feel free to make as many of these as you like for local craft fairs/auctions/raffles/bazaars, but please

do not sell finished items online. If making for charity, please let me know the name of the charity & include my contact info with the item (http://anastaciaknits.net). If you have any questions or comments or just want to join like-minded souls, please join my Ravelry group at http://www.ravelry.com/groups/anastacia-knits-designs. Thanks!

granny square coasters – great for bazaars!

Posted on November 5, 2008 by Anastacia Knits

Granny Square Coasters
By Anastacia Zittel
anastaciaknits@verizon.net
anastaciaknits on Ravelry
Finished coasters measure 3.25 inches across.

MATERIALS:
Size H crochet hook
Worsted weight cotton yarn, such as Lily Sugar â€˜n Cream. Set of 4 uses 20 grams / between 30-40 yards
GAUGE:
1st rnd measures 1.75 inches
PATTERN NOTES:
Work in continuous rounds, do not turn.
DIRECTIONS:
Rnd 1: Ch 5, join with a sl st.
Rnd 2: Ch 5 (counts as 1st dc & ch 2 sp in this rnd & Rnd 3). 3 dc in same sp, 2 ch. *3 dc, ch 2, rep from * for a total of 3 times, end with 2 dc in same ch sp, join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch-5, sl st into corner sp.
Rnd 3: Ch 5, 3 dc in same sp. * Ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) â€“ first complete corner made. Rep from * three times total, end with 2 dc in same ch sp, & join to 3rd ch of beg ch 5, sl st into 1st corner.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, * work 3 sc in corner sp, & sc in every dc & ch sp along the side around, rep from * around, join with sl st into first sc. End off, & weave in ends!

Feel free to make as many of these as you like for local craft fairs/auctions/raffles/bazaars, but please do not sell finished items online. The pattern itself is not for sale. If making for charity, please let me know the name of the charity & include my contact info with the item (http://anastaciaknits.net / anastaciaknits@verizon.net / anastaciaknits on Ravelry). Thanks!

Thanks to pamelascrafts, vapmore, & redcurlysue for their test crocheting/thoughts/editing. Also, a big thank you goes out to The Testing Pool group on Ravelry.

another round dishcloth

Posted on November 5, 2008 by Anastacia Knits

Round Dishcloth
By anastaciaknits on Ravelry
anastaciaknits@verizon.net

Gauge: first 5 rounds equals 3 inches. Finished size: 6.5 inches across.

MATERIALS:
H crochet hook
100% dishcloth cotton, such as Lily Sugar â€˜N Cream, approximately 20 grams.
PATTERN NOTES:
Work in continuous rnds (not joining each round) unless otherwise stated. Do not turn. Place marker in 1st st of each rnd, and move stitch marker up each rnd.

DIRECTIONS:
Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook: 6 sc.
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around: 12 sc.
Rnd 3: 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next, rep around: 18 sc.
Rnd 4: 2 sc in first, 1 sc in next 2 sc, rep around: 24 sc.
Rnd 5: 2 sc in first, 1 sc in next 3 sc, rep around, join rnd with a sl st in 1st sc: 30 sc.
Rnd 6: You will now be joining each round. Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc for this & next 2 rnds), 1 dc in ea of the next 2 sc, ch 1, * 1 dc in next 3 sc, ch 1, rep from * around, join rnd with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch 3: 30 dc, 10 ch-1 sp.
Rnd 7: Ch 3, 1 dc in ea of the next 2 dc, ch 2, * 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, ch 2, rep from * around, join with a sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch 3: 30 dc, & 10 ch-2 sp.
Rnd 8: Ch 3, 1 dc in next 2 dc, 3 dc in ch 2 sp, * dc in next 3 dc, 3 dc in ch-2 sp. Rep from * around, join with sl st in 3rd ch of beg ch 3: 60 dc.
Rnd 9: Ch 1, * sc in next 9 dc, 2 sc in the next st, rep from * around: sl st to 1st sc: 66 sc. End off. Weave in ends.

Feel free to make as many of these as you like for local craft fairs/auctions/raffles/bazaars, but please
do not sell finished items online. The pattern itself is not for sale. If making for charity, please let me know the name of the charity & include my contact info with the item (http://anastaciaknits.net / anastaciaknits@verizon.net / anastaciaknits on Ravelry). Thanks!

Thanks to pamelascrafts, olive2, vapmore, redcurlysue, & gumby28 for their test crocheting/thoughts/editing. Also, a big thank you goes out to The Testing Pool group on Ravelry.

Basic Armwarmers

Posted on November 5, 2008 by Anastacia Knits

Patons classic merino wool – less than a skein will do it
fingering weight mohair – I used vintage mohair
scrap novelty yarn – I used Lion Brand Fun Fur

Size regular (large)

Using size 5 DPN (or do 2 at once ala 2s2c, or magic loop), cast on 24 (28) stitches, with one strand of novelty yarn & one strand of the wool.

Knit 9 (10) rounds. Cut novelty yarn, and turn cuff inside out – I think the fun fur looks better on the wrong side, but keep on the right side if you prefer

Join mohair, and knit plain in st st for 4 inches. Bind off using E. Zimmermann’s sewn bind off, or method of choice.

Please consider making a pair for charity, as this pattern was originally intended.

Basic beaded barrette

Posted on November 5, 2008 by Anastacia Knits

Basic Beaded Barrette

By Anastacia Zittel / anastaciaknits@verizon.net / anastaciaknits on Ravelry

/anastacia knits designs

Basic Beaded Barrette
By Anastacia Zittel / anastaciaknits on Ravelry

http://www.ravelry.com/groups/anastacia-knits-designs

Materials:
scrap of worsted weight yarn & hook of choice, I used an H
10-12 beads or buttons
Yarn needle
Gauge: doesnâ€™t matter

Abbreviations (pattern uses US terms):
ch: chain
rep: repeat
sl st: slip stitch
sc: single crochet
dc: double crochet

Pattern:
Open up your blank barrette. Remove the little bar thatâ€™s there. Thread yarn or buttons onto yarn with a needle.
Join yarn with a sl st around barrette body & sc as many times as possible across the whole barrette, without making it too full, & using an odd number of stitches. I find 13 works well for worsted weight yarn, 15 or 17 for sport or dk. If itâ€™s too full, the barrette wonâ€™t close.
Ch 3 (for 1st dc), and then slip up a bead, ch 1 around bead, dc into same space. *2 dc in next sc, (1 dc, pull up bead, ch 1 around bead,, 1 dc in next sc), & rep across.
Thatâ€™s it. Weave in ends, pop bar back into place, & enjoy!

Feel free to make as many of these as you like for local craft fairs/auctions/raffles/bazaars, but please

do not sell finished items online without permission. The pattern itself is not for sale.Â If making for charity, please let me know the name of the charity & include my contact info with the item (http://anastaciaknits.net / anastaciaknits on Ravelry). If you have any questions or comments or just want to join like-minded souls, please join my Ravelry group at http://www.ravelry.com/groups/anastacia-knits-designs. Thanks!

Anastacia Knits

easy, elegant & edgy crochet designs

Monthly Archives: November 2008

corner to corner afghan, day 3

corner to corner afghan day two

corner to corner afghan part one

Newsboy Hat

newsboy hat

very easy small scrubbie

Toe Up Socks

granny square coasters – great for bazaars!

another round dishcloth

Basic Armwarmers

Basic beaded barrette